Building a Glued Lapstrake Tirrik

The interior looking aft

Here you can see the floorboards, painted a soft grey, with nonskid applied to keep them from being too slippery when wet.

The beaching rudder

The beaching rudder is easily controlled while in the water. When raising or lowering the blade there is a distinct >thunk< to let you know it is in position. The rudder tends to stay in the "down" position by itself when sailing slowly, a result of the rudder's bouyancy in that position being ahead of the pivot point. Above three knots or so, the rudder is pulled into the raised position unless the downhaul is secure.

Oarlock Pad

The oarlock sockets are mortised into the pads. The additional effort pays off in a very solid installation that will not work loose.

Chainplates

The shrouds were spliced to the correct length to establish the correct mast rake. A stay adjuster installed at the forestay allows for quick rigging and tensioning changes. Fortunately, the foredeck is just short enough so that the mast can be stepped with the shrouds previously set up, greatly simplifying rigging for sail.

Centerboard Trunk and Rigging

A bronze pin passes through oilite bushings in the centerboard and its trunk, securely holding the board up when underway or trailering.

The Tirrik on display at the 2006 Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival, with our Wee Rob to the left, and the Caledonia Yawl we built earlier in the year to the right. And that's the builder himself - Tom Regan

The Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival was a great success. There were a number of other Iain Oughtred designed boats, so we were in good company. We displayed three of our boats, a Wee Rob, the Tirrik, and the Caledonia Yawl we built earlier this year.